Have you ever wondered where your chocolate has come from? Or are you too busy indulging in the rich taste to care where it's from? Well it's quite likely the cocoa to produce your chocolate was grouwn here, Ghana. Cocoa is Ghana's most important crop as it is the largest earner of foreign revenue for the country. So cocoa makes the world go round, or at least fuels Ghana's economy.
I've been blessed in my life to have encountered some truly remarkable people who have inspired me in so many ways. Today I travelled out to Manso, a cocoa farming area, with some of the group to find out more about fair trade where I encountered a very strong woman called Comfort. Are mission was to find out whether farmer's like Comfort are getting a better deal and does buying fair trade really make a difference? The short answer is YES! I've seen it with my own eyes, the better working conditions, the funded community projects and how a fair trade co-operative empowers there members to have a voice.
The remarkable lady I met was Comfort Kumeah, a 59 year old farmer, mother, widow, grandmother and until very recentally a kindergarten teacher. Today we visited her at her home where we quickly exchanged greetings and were handed a part of wellington boots. 'My farm is very near... just over that hill' she said as quickly marched into the trees. After a bumpy 45 minute walk we arrived at her cocoa farm. Comfort proudly showed us the ripe cocoa pods and started to demonstrate the cocoa process; from nurturing the trees, breaking the pods, scooping the beans, drying the beans and crushing them - by no means easy work! Farming in the developing world is back breaking work with no machines to use.
While she showed us the process we took the opportunity to ask her about being park of Kuapa Kokoo, a fair trade co-operative. Comfort described the difficult days before the co-operative where the scales were fixed and the farmers never got enough for their crops. Since joining the co-operative she receives a fair price for her cocoa and also receives bonuses. Money is also invested into community projects like schools, water pumps and training farmers to use their skills when it is not the cocoa season. Kuapa Kokoo works with over 45, 000 farmers, who have a 45% share in Divine Chocolate (which you can buy in the UK). Comfort is passionate about people knowing where there food has come from and to know that a lot of love and hard work is invested into growing the cocoa used for chocolate.
Although cocoa is Ghana's main crop, chocolate is not part of the ghanaian diet. It is seen as a luxury that many can't afford. Comfort first tasted chocolate in 2002 after farming for over 25years. When we asked her if she had a message for the Uk she said, 'Buy fair trade chocolate because it's papapa for farmers' (papapa means very good).
If you want to find out more about fair trade then please log on to: www.christianaid.org.uk
‘Forget about making poverty history, climate change will make poverty permanent.’- Nazmul Chowdhury, Practical Action, Christian Aid partner
For those of you who are in touch with the British media, I’m sure you’ve noticed that last week was climate camp. This year the camp took place outside Kingsnorth power station, where E.ON has proposed to build a new coal fired power station. This is one of many coal fired power stations planned by energy companies and supported by our government. So why am I writing about power stations while I’m in Ghana? Good question, I’m concerned because coal is the most carbon intensive way to generate energy and if we are to halt catastrophic climate change we must cut carbon emissions in the UK. The fact is the climate is changing and is already hitting the poorest people first and worst. Yet the people who are on the frontline; the farmers who can’t grow their crops or the families displaced by floods are the people who have emitted the least.
People here don’t live carbon intensive lifestyles. My African home is comfortable but simple; we have an outside small stove where we prepare meals and a drop toilet – to save water! Yes we have electricity but day to day life can still carry on when the electricity is off (which frequently happens). The fact is the whole of Ghana emits less carbon emissions than the planned power station for Kingsnorth! (WDM fact). Yet it is the people of Ghana who are already feeling the consequences of climate change. Ghana’s main source of electricity is Akosmobo Dam which is currently at a record low, which many believe is due the higher temperatures that they are experiencing here.
So what can we do? We all have power and we can all make change happen. We must hold are government accountable and make sure that real carbon cuts are made in the UK. Are changing climate is a global injustice and a global solution is needed. We need to join together and fight for Climate Justice, join the campaign today at: http://www.christianaid.org.uk/
Fovorite climate camp story: twelve naked climate campaigners superglue themselves to the sancitioning body (BERR) for Kingsnorth - http://climatecamp.org.uk/node/441
People here don’t live carbon intensive lifestyles. My African home is comfortable but simple; we have an outside small stove where we prepare meals and a drop toilet – to save water! Yes we have electricity but day to day life can still carry on when the electricity is off (which frequently happens). The fact is the whole of Ghana emits less carbon emissions than the planned power station for Kingsnorth! (WDM fact). Yet it is the people of Ghana who are already feeling the consequences of climate change. Ghana’s main source of electricity is Akosmobo Dam which is currently at a record low, which many believe is due the higher temperatures that they are experiencing here.
So what can we do? We all have power and we can all make change happen. We must hold are government accountable and make sure that real carbon cuts are made in the UK. Are changing climate is a global injustice and a global solution is needed. We need to join together and fight for Climate Justice, join the campaign today at: http://www.christianaid.org.uk/
Fovorite climate camp story: twelve naked climate campaigners superglue themselves to the sancitioning body (BERR) for Kingsnorth - http://climatecamp.org.uk/node/441
On Safari
Wow what a weekend. I’ll start with the bad news first, for the last 24hours I have been projectile vomiting and it has not been pretty! Yesterday we travelled from 3.30am until 6pm on 2 very rickety busses. While waiting for the bus at the station, I began to feel dizzy and then started vomitting over the side of the pavement. I decided to still travel on the bus and continued to vomit out of the window several times. I felt sorry for the people sitting around me, as I emptied my stomach. I’m feeling a bit better now and am hoping it was just food poisoning.
Nevertheless I did have a brilliant weekend. We travelled to the Northern Region to Tamale which was a refreshing change. A predominately Muslim city with thousands of bicycles and another language made us feel like we’d changed countries instead of just regions. We stayed for a day in the city where we explored the leather market. We watched craftsmen making leather flip flops with car tyre soles. As I have large feet (size 8) I got a bespoke pair made, unfortunately the final stitches were made by a child. Which Zach enjoyed teasing me about after I had ranted the other day about child labour making his designer clothes.
After exploring the city we all piled onto a big orange bus to take us to Mole National Park (largest Safari park in Ghana). We luckily all managed to get seats on the 4hour bus journey which was packed with local farmers transporting their produce. When we arrived at the Park, we organized rooms and then enjoyed a nice dinner by the pool. The next morning we woke up early to go on Safari. We were accompanied by an armed ranger who took us further into the park where we saw warthogs, monkeys, antelopes and ELEPHANTS! The elephants were fantastic; we followed them through the forest as they knocked down trees and played with one another. It was amazing to be so close to wild animals in their natural habitat. After 2 hours walking we then returned to the hotel for breakfast and a swim in the pool looking over the savanna. As I was getting out from the pool, I heard a person shouting about an elephant. We all ran to see the commotion; it was a large elephant standing very close to the hotel. It was a little scary as there was no armed ranger present and we had been told earlier that if an elephant starts charging at you it will be difficult to escape.
In the afternoon Karem, Ifsa and I visited the Larabanga Mosque, the oldest Mosque in West Africa, it was a beautiful Western Sudanese designed mud structure. After a couple of hours looking around the village with our tour guides, we started to look for transport home. We initially looked for a taxi to take us back to the park however there was only one which was out of town. We then thought about waiting for the bus but it wasn’t due to arrive until 3hours later. So are choices were either bicycles or motorbikes. As it began to rain and we knew it was an uphill journey we decided to take the motorbikes. It was brilliant, Ifsa and I were a little scared as we jumped onto the large blue bike but it was brilliant. As are confidence grew we then started racing Karem until are engine broke and the bike swerved. Thankfully we were all safe and after 20mins pushing the bike the engine started and we were back on our way.
Nevertheless I did have a brilliant weekend. We travelled to the Northern Region to Tamale which was a refreshing change. A predominately Muslim city with thousands of bicycles and another language made us feel like we’d changed countries instead of just regions. We stayed for a day in the city where we explored the leather market. We watched craftsmen making leather flip flops with car tyre soles. As I have large feet (size 8) I got a bespoke pair made, unfortunately the final stitches were made by a child. Which Zach enjoyed teasing me about after I had ranted the other day about child labour making his designer clothes.
After exploring the city we all piled onto a big orange bus to take us to Mole National Park (largest Safari park in Ghana). We luckily all managed to get seats on the 4hour bus journey which was packed with local farmers transporting their produce. When we arrived at the Park, we organized rooms and then enjoyed a nice dinner by the pool. The next morning we woke up early to go on Safari. We were accompanied by an armed ranger who took us further into the park where we saw warthogs, monkeys, antelopes and ELEPHANTS! The elephants were fantastic; we followed them through the forest as they knocked down trees and played with one another. It was amazing to be so close to wild animals in their natural habitat. After 2 hours walking we then returned to the hotel for breakfast and a swim in the pool looking over the savanna. As I was getting out from the pool, I heard a person shouting about an elephant. We all ran to see the commotion; it was a large elephant standing very close to the hotel. It was a little scary as there was no armed ranger present and we had been told earlier that if an elephant starts charging at you it will be difficult to escape.
In the afternoon Karem, Ifsa and I visited the Larabanga Mosque, the oldest Mosque in West Africa, it was a beautiful Western Sudanese designed mud structure. After a couple of hours looking around the village with our tour guides, we started to look for transport home. We initially looked for a taxi to take us back to the park however there was only one which was out of town. We then thought about waiting for the bus but it wasn’t due to arrive until 3hours later. So are choices were either bicycles or motorbikes. As it began to rain and we knew it was an uphill journey we decided to take the motorbikes. It was brilliant, Ifsa and I were a little scared as we jumped onto the large blue bike but it was brilliant. As are confidence grew we then started racing Karem until are engine broke and the bike swerved. Thankfully we were all safe and after 20mins pushing the bike the engine started and we were back on our way.
Boycott Nestle please
I have succumbed to eating Nestle products after a life time of boycotting their brand. Since arriving in Africa, I have found it to difficult to avoid the Nestle logo. From milk to drinks their bold, blue label is easy to see. Not only are their products on every shelf, but many billboards advertising their ‘nutritious’ and ‘delicious’ products dominate the skyline.
My reason for boycotting? Because of Nestlé’s irresponsible marketing of baby milk products in the developing world. Where water is unsafe a bottle-fed child is up to 25 times more likely to die as a result of diarrhea than a breastfed child (www.babymilkaction.org). An estimated 1.5million (WHO) infants die around the world every year because they are simply not breastfed. Nestle’s aggressive marketing encourages mothers that baby milk is best, causing many infant deaths.
I suppose your thinking, so why boycott? What’s that going to achieve? And when I was younger, feeling deprived that I didn’t get KitKats in my lunchbox, I asked the very same question…
A silent boycott probably won’t achieve very much. However if we put pressure on corporate companies that are abusing their power and encourage others to do the same then change can happen.
Take action today and join the boycott: www.babymilkaction.org
My reason for boycotting? Because of Nestlé’s irresponsible marketing of baby milk products in the developing world. Where water is unsafe a bottle-fed child is up to 25 times more likely to die as a result of diarrhea than a breastfed child (www.babymilkaction.org). An estimated 1.5million (WHO) infants die around the world every year because they are simply not breastfed. Nestle’s aggressive marketing encourages mothers that baby milk is best, causing many infant deaths.
I suppose your thinking, so why boycott? What’s that going to achieve? And when I was younger, feeling deprived that I didn’t get KitKats in my lunchbox, I asked the very same question…
A silent boycott probably won’t achieve very much. However if we put pressure on corporate companies that are abusing their power and encourage others to do the same then change can happen.
Take action today and join the boycott: www.babymilkaction.org
Trip stats so far
Number of marriage proposals: 17
Number of mosquito bits: 21
Number of children offered to me to take home:3
Number of photographs taken:454
Number of birthdays celebrated: 3
Number of regions traveled to: 4
Number of mosquito bits: 21
Number of children offered to me to take home:3
Number of photographs taken:454
Number of birthdays celebrated: 3
Number of regions traveled to: 4
Baking birthday cakes
So far we have celebrated 3birthdays in the group already. This week it was Shana's 20th birthday so I decided to bake her a birthday cake. At home this usually involves dashing round tescos, quickly stirring the ingredients and relaxing infront of the tv while it bakes. However in Ghana, this is a little more taxing. First I visited the food market in Kumasi, I was greeted by some very friendly women pointing out the stores I should visit. After an hour walking around the market I finally had all the ingredients; flour, sugar, margarine, nutmeg, eggs and chocolate!
I had asked my Ghanaian mother and sister for help with baking the cake, I suggested cooking the cake the night before but they insisted that it would be better fresh so I woke up early. First we had to beat the sugar and margarine together until all the grains are smoothly beaten - taking nearly 2hours! We then mixed the eggs and stirred it in with the rest of the ingredients. After another half hour stirring we finally greased the heart shaped tins and poured in the mixture. Thinking the job was nearly over we then had to waft the fire while the cake cooked - for another hour! So 3hours later, we finally had 2 heart shaped cakes with chocolate chunks and a birthday candle. The next task was carrying it over to Shana's house, this was quite challenging as the heavy rain had made the ground wet. When I finally arrived the group sang happy birthday in the dark (yet another electricity cut) and then ate the cake!
I had asked my Ghanaian mother and sister for help with baking the cake, I suggested cooking the cake the night before but they insisted that it would be better fresh so I woke up early. First we had to beat the sugar and margarine together until all the grains are smoothly beaten - taking nearly 2hours! We then mixed the eggs and stirred it in with the rest of the ingredients. After another half hour stirring we finally greased the heart shaped tins and poured in the mixture. Thinking the job was nearly over we then had to waft the fire while the cake cooked - for another hour! So 3hours later, we finally had 2 heart shaped cakes with chocolate chunks and a birthday candle. The next task was carrying it over to Shana's house, this was quite challenging as the heavy rain had made the ground wet. When I finally arrived the group sang happy birthday in the dark (yet another electricity cut) and then ate the cake!
Unable to make it stop, unable to protect her
Our day started with a blow. We turned up early to the building site and as we waited for the tools to arrive we caught up with the latest news. As we chatted about people's weekends, I heard a scream from behind. I quickly turned to see a man hit a school girl to the ground. She yelled and called out in Twi. We couldn't understand her screams as the man continued to beat her. Then silence. He opened the large metal gates to his home and pushed her through. I thought it was over but the worse was yet to come. Standing several yards away on the building site we could hear his belt hit her soft skin. I couldn't bare to listen, some said it's their culture. But it wasn't a culture I was used to and asked Ata, one of the village elders, to do something. He could see the group was mortified by what they were witnessing. I pleaded with him to do something, I said 'either you do something or I will' and he knodded and said this is child abuse and walked towards the gate. I couldn't bare to listen anymore, I felt physically sick as I could still hear the girl crying out. I didn't want to cry infront of the group but I couldn't stop the tears run so I quickly walked to behind the female toilet walls and broke down. I felt completely helpless. A few yards away was a girl being continually beaten and I stood on the otherside helpless. Unable to make it stop, unable to protect her. I later returned to the group to find out that Ata hadn't stopped the man, once he found out that the girl had stolen money he commented that she deserved it.
Why in a world of plenty, are people dying from hunger?
Since a young age, I've know that poverty existed. My mum would be the first to remind me of starving children in Africa when I didn't want to eat my veg! At school we would learn about different countries and I would feel sorry for the poor children who couldn't go to school but I never felt empowered to do anything. I remember my old RE teacher would say the poor will always be with us, and I think I just excepted it. Then the Make Poverty History campaign was launched in 2005 and everything changed. Poverty was placed on my doorstep, it became personal to me. Through organisations like Christian Aid and CAFOD, I felt empowered to do something about it. So I got involved; signed postcards, lobbied MPs, organised and attended protests. I was 16 at the time and slightly naive to think we could Make Poverty History in a year but nevertheless the campaign stirred me to act. Since living here in Ghana, I've had moments where I do feel sorry. I walked through a shanty town and encountered people who could barely afford to live and sympathy was my instinct reaction. Then anger. Why in a world of plenty, are people dying from hunger? Why do I have so much but thousands more have so little? Out here I sometimes feel a little helpless, that poverty surrounds me here yet all we're doing is building some toilets and doing a little teaching. However I know that this is just the beginning and that are real work is to be done back home. To engage young people in development issues and campaign to Make Poverty History. It's not about charity, it's not about sympathy, it's about justice. Ghana is a country rich in resources, many of the chocolate you eat will have come from here. You may pay 40p for the enjoyment yet the people who slaved away in the cocoa plantations only receive a very small fraction (unless you buy fair-trade of course!) We must challenge and change the systems that keep people poor. Please take action today and make change happen: www.christianaid.org.uk/actnow
Happy snaps:)
Today the photography group received their first prints and they were brilliant! Well some were wonky with fingers in front and peoples heads missing however the majority we're in focus with a subject focus. The excitement from the children we're contagious as they all opened their individual packets of photos. Eight year old Vivienne rushed to show her photos to her mum with pride while the others rushed to see every photo they had taken. Many of the other children from the village came to ask where their photos were? We have kept a few of the special photos in a group book and hope to host our very own photo exhibition here in Achiase. Public space is limited though so I'm hoping that once we finish the toilets we will be able to use the reception are for our exhibition. In our last session, I taught them how to use the timer button on the camera. They were surprised by the function and got very excited when they realised they could do self portraits. I can't wait to see the pictures!
Transport tales
I have a reputation in my group for being the one to organize weekend trips away with my trusty (falling apart) guide book! I’d noticed in the transport section that trains ran between Kumasi to Takoradi, so I decided the Western Region would be our destination. I was excited about traveling on a train across Ghana and on Friday morning we set out to the train station. We arrived in Kumasi and a very friendly gentleman led us to the station. I was a little surprised that our route to the train station was walking on rusty old train tracks with people selling various items along the side. However I assumed these must be old tracks and we marched on. We finally arrived at the train station where many people stood, so I was hopeful that a train would be coming soon. However when we asked the train guard he laughed and said no trains have ran in the last year and from the look of the train tracks no trains will be running anytime soon. So we jumped into a posh trotro and headed to Takoradi. Sarah was talking to a very friendly gentleman who smiled when she said we had been planning to travel by train, his response ‘Ghanaians wouldn’t even travel on those trains if they were free!’
Once we arrived in Takoradi, we caught a rickety old trotro to ‘The Green Turtle Lodge’ where we enjoyed a fabulous dinner and night on the beach. The eco lodge was beautiful; we were able to camp on a stunning white sandy beach with an outdoor shower looking out to the sea. I enjoyed a beautiful walk along the beach and a dip in the sea before breakfast. On Saturday we traveled further into the region, we we’re kindly given a lift to the bus station in a 4x4. There were a few too many people to seats, but the driver calmly suggested the roof and we jumped at the opportunity, So Karem, Sarah and I climbed up onto the rickety roof and watched the beautiful scenery pass us by. It was brilliant! Although Karem questioned whether our insurance policy would cover us and how would we explain it to our parents if anything happened!?
Our next form of random transport was a small canoe, we questioned whether all six of us and our luggage would fit, however the boatman calmed our fears and we all piled on. The canoe journey was stunning, we passed through two jungles and out onto a vast black lake. Our final stop was a stilt village built on the lake, which we explored.
I’d noticed in my guide book a desert of the coast of Ghana, where tourists are allowed to camp. So we decided our final night would be spent on the desert island, half our group backed out but Karem, Ifsa and I decided to face our fears and board a very old fishing boat which would take us to the Nunu Busua Island. Ifsa and I clutched each others hands as we boarded into the boat and headed out onto the rough sea. Waves continually rocked out boat, up and down but we made it to the small Island. With no tents, no sleeping bags and no mobiles working we stayed on the Island. We enjoyed banana pancakes as we watched the sunset over the main land. It was a cold night, however I did manage to sleep for 7hours! Unfortunately Karem didn’t and spent the whole night worrying about the heavy clouds lurking above us!
Once we arrived in Takoradi, we caught a rickety old trotro to ‘The Green Turtle Lodge’ where we enjoyed a fabulous dinner and night on the beach. The eco lodge was beautiful; we were able to camp on a stunning white sandy beach with an outdoor shower looking out to the sea. I enjoyed a beautiful walk along the beach and a dip in the sea before breakfast. On Saturday we traveled further into the region, we we’re kindly given a lift to the bus station in a 4x4. There were a few too many people to seats, but the driver calmly suggested the roof and we jumped at the opportunity, So Karem, Sarah and I climbed up onto the rickety roof and watched the beautiful scenery pass us by. It was brilliant! Although Karem questioned whether our insurance policy would cover us and how would we explain it to our parents if anything happened!?
Our next form of random transport was a small canoe, we questioned whether all six of us and our luggage would fit, however the boatman calmed our fears and we all piled on. The canoe journey was stunning, we passed through two jungles and out onto a vast black lake. Our final stop was a stilt village built on the lake, which we explored.
I’d noticed in my guide book a desert of the coast of Ghana, where tourists are allowed to camp. So we decided our final night would be spent on the desert island, half our group backed out but Karem, Ifsa and I decided to face our fears and board a very old fishing boat which would take us to the Nunu Busua Island. Ifsa and I clutched each others hands as we boarded into the boat and headed out onto the rough sea. Waves continually rocked out boat, up and down but we made it to the small Island. With no tents, no sleeping bags and no mobiles working we stayed on the Island. We enjoyed banana pancakes as we watched the sunset over the main land. It was a cold night, however I did manage to sleep for 7hours! Unfortunately Karem didn’t and spent the whole night worrying about the heavy clouds lurking above us!
Children and the hierarchy of age
Since arriving here in Achiase, Ghana we have entertained local children with our funny accents and pale skin. Every morning children run to greet us as we walk to work and in the evenings they enjoy hanging out with us in the village centre. At times it can be quite intense, when children fight to hold your hand or stroke your strange soft hair. However most of the time it is fantastic to be in their company, listening to how much they enjoy school and watching how they take care of one another. It is clear to see the hierarchy of age here in Ghana. Not only is great respect paid to your elders but children differentiate between themselves. The older children take care of their young siblings as if they were their own child and enjoy exerting authority over them. Being the youngest in my family, I empathise with the smaller children who begrudgingly obey their older siblings (although I was never that obedient!).
As I was walking to the boy’s house to play scrabble, I encountered the most beautiful baby. She was smiling and giggling as her mother cradled her. I couldn’t help but stare. Her mother noticed me watching and engaged me in a small conversation in Twi. She passed baby Beatrice over to me and I enjoyed a cuddle as the baby happily gurgled. The mother then said I could take her, I thought she was joking so made a quick remark about not being able to fit her in my suitcase back to England. But she was serious.
As I was walking to the boy’s house to play scrabble, I encountered the most beautiful baby. She was smiling and giggling as her mother cradled her. I couldn’t help but stare. Her mother noticed me watching and engaged me in a small conversation in Twi. She passed baby Beatrice over to me and I enjoyed a cuddle as the baby happily gurgled. The mother then said I could take her, I thought she was joking so made a quick remark about not being able to fit her in my suitcase back to England. But she was serious.
Something special
Wow! I've just had an amazing weekend. On Friday we packed our bags and headed off to the trotro stop. The guide book said the public transport to Nkoranza was from the racecourse. I was expecting to see an old dirt race track and maybe a few stables. I definitely wasn't expecting to see a sprawling shantytown built upon an old race track. After a half hour walk we arrived at a small hut with a sign to Nkoranza and bought our tickets. We showed how british we were when we asked 'What time does the trotro leave?'. They laughed and replied when it's full!
So after a cramped 2hour journey we arrived in Nkoranza and travelled to our guest house. We stayed in a truly amazing place, called the 'Hand in Hand' community. After arriving a little late they showed us to our stone huts with outside showers. On our way to dinner we met Bob who lives in the community. His wife Ineke, a dutch doctor, set up the community to care for mentally handicapped children and adults in Ghana. Bob spoke with pride of his remarkable wife's achievements, Ineke who helped set up Health Insurance in Ghana and last week was honoured by the president. Bob invited us into their home where he showed us his extensive book collection, he is a man who loves knowledge. It was a pleasure to spend time with Bob over the weekend, he spoke with passion as he described the life 'Hand in Hand' community has created for many children who were often abandoned by their parents.
As we ate breakfast, we were joined by Emanuella - a beautiful little girl. Who was rejected by her mother at Christmas after being born with no limbs. She smiled while Bob sang old love songs to her. He described the night Emanuella had arrived into their community after her mother had threatened to abandon her in the bushes.
On Saturday, we visited a monkey sanctuary and in the afternoon we relaxed at a beautiful waterfall. Standing under the waterfall was a gorgeous way to cool down from the hot african heat.
So after a cramped 2hour journey we arrived in Nkoranza and travelled to our guest house. We stayed in a truly amazing place, called the 'Hand in Hand' community. After arriving a little late they showed us to our stone huts with outside showers. On our way to dinner we met Bob who lives in the community. His wife Ineke, a dutch doctor, set up the community to care for mentally handicapped children and adults in Ghana. Bob spoke with pride of his remarkable wife's achievements, Ineke who helped set up Health Insurance in Ghana and last week was honoured by the president. Bob invited us into their home where he showed us his extensive book collection, he is a man who loves knowledge. It was a pleasure to spend time with Bob over the weekend, he spoke with passion as he described the life 'Hand in Hand' community has created for many children who were often abandoned by their parents.
As we ate breakfast, we were joined by Emanuella - a beautiful little girl. Who was rejected by her mother at Christmas after being born with no limbs. She smiled while Bob sang old love songs to her. He described the night Emanuella had arrived into their community after her mother had threatened to abandon her in the bushes.
On Saturday, we visited a monkey sanctuary and in the afternoon we relaxed at a beautiful waterfall. Standing under the waterfall was a gorgeous way to cool down from the hot african heat.
With the highs comes some lows
I dithered about uploading this blog. Those of you who know me well, know I hate to complain. But I thought I should include some of the lows as well as the highs - so here it is.
I'm fed up, tired and dirty. I could do with a wash but instead I've decided to write. Today was really tough, we started with a team meeting to review the past few weeks. I took the role as minute writer and quickly discovered how difficult it is when there are several people talking at once! The final item on the agenda was 'group dynamics', I think the meeting showed how bad our team dynamics are. There was many conversations happening at the same time, while others listened to music and played games. I felt like I was back at high school. The topic of group dynamics created a tense and upsetting environment. From early in the trip our team split into smaller groups. Which is expected as a team of 15 but I think we've come to a stage, 4 weeks into the trip, where we want to unite but are struggling to accept one another's differences. So after an aggravating hour meeting, I stared to dig. A great method of releasing anger, even though my blistered hands my disagree! We're currently digging a huge hole for a septic tank.
Any way, that's my rant over. I'm hoping now we have all aired are views we can start to move on and work on team moral. Although I am really excited about escaping this weekend. Going to explore the Brong-Ahafo region with a few fabulous people!
I'm fed up, tired and dirty. I could do with a wash but instead I've decided to write. Today was really tough, we started with a team meeting to review the past few weeks. I took the role as minute writer and quickly discovered how difficult it is when there are several people talking at once! The final item on the agenda was 'group dynamics', I think the meeting showed how bad our team dynamics are. There was many conversations happening at the same time, while others listened to music and played games. I felt like I was back at high school. The topic of group dynamics created a tense and upsetting environment. From early in the trip our team split into smaller groups. Which is expected as a team of 15 but I think we've come to a stage, 4 weeks into the trip, where we want to unite but are struggling to accept one another's differences. So after an aggravating hour meeting, I stared to dig. A great method of releasing anger, even though my blistered hands my disagree! We're currently digging a huge hole for a septic tank.
Any way, that's my rant over. I'm hoping now we have all aired are views we can start to move on and work on team moral. Although I am really excited about escaping this weekend. Going to explore the Brong-Ahafo region with a few fabulous people!
Religion
One of the first things I noticed when arriving in Ghana was how commercially Christianity is used. It's everywhere! Clap for Jesus slogans cover the back of taxi windows, shop names range from 'God's time beauty' to 'The lord's fashion' and churches dominate the skyline. Religion is a live in Ghana and within our group. I've really enjoyed getting to know the rest of the team here in Achiase and it's been fascinating to learn about one another's beliefs. On Friday I felt honoured to be invited to the Mosque where Karem and Ifsa pray. I rushed through the village as I heard the prayer call from the loud speakers. As I approached the mosque, I covered my hair with a scarf and peaked in through the doors. I could see Karem at the front calling people to prayer but was unable to see Ifsa. So I started to turn away, as I did a few of the children called me back and invited me to sit at the back with them. I felt more comfortable with the children who showed me where to sit. The sermon was spoken in Twi so I was only able to identify a few words - 'Obama' and 'nation' particularly.
On Sunday I was invited to my Ghanaian mother May's Methodist Church. May takes a very active role in the church, particularly the Women's Fellowship. As she was helping to lead worship she introduced me to the choir and handed me a hymn book. The songs were lively (and thankfully in English) with lots of dancing and praising God. As I spoke to some of the members of the church you could tell they were happy to be there and happy to praise God. As I was unable to understand the service in Twi it was a little surprising when everyone looked at me and i was taken to the front of the church! I was asked to say a few words about our mission here in Achiase and the congregation prayed for us all here. However I did struggled a little to stay as lively as the congregation for the full 3hours, as I'm used to Mass back home lasting just 30minutes!
On Sunday I was invited to my Ghanaian mother May's Methodist Church. May takes a very active role in the church, particularly the Women's Fellowship. As she was helping to lead worship she introduced me to the choir and handed me a hymn book. The songs were lively (and thankfully in English) with lots of dancing and praising God. As I spoke to some of the members of the church you could tell they were happy to be there and happy to praise God. As I was unable to understand the service in Twi it was a little surprising when everyone looked at me and i was taken to the front of the church! I was asked to say a few words about our mission here in Achiase and the congregation prayed for us all here. However I did struggled a little to stay as lively as the congregation for the full 3hours, as I'm used to Mass back home lasting just 30minutes!
On the road to no where...
After eating a few too many local dishes (banku & foo foo particularly), the group decided to treat ourselves and have dinner out in Kumasi. We indulged on western cuisine including banana splits - yum! Once we filled our bellies, we decided to get taxis home to Achiase. Street sellers crowded us with paintings and necklaces as we rushed into taxis. Ryan, Heather and I jumped into a taxi and negotiated a reasonable price. Our driver initially did a loop round Kumasi and ended up at the restaurant we had eaten at. At this point I questioned the driver's knowledge of Achiase and offered to get another taxi. He reassured us in broken english that he knew the way. So we set off on a route that didn't look familiar, I started to imagine the worse and made suggestions that we should get out however Ryan assured me that everything was fine and we must be going on the 'back roads'.
Half an hour later I still didn't recognise a thing so insisted we pulled over and ask a local. The first said to carry on into the dark however the second looked very surprised that we were looking for Achiase and directed us back to Kumasi.
I was bursting for the toilet by this point so directed the driver to AfricaWeb (our favourite web cafe). Once we arrived the driver demanded a lot of money for the trip which we refused to pay. We offered a small amount for the petrol but he demanded more even though he hadn't taken us to our destination. We ignored his request and carried on to the internet cafe.
The following hour was spent arguing with the driver who had befriended the banks security guards (who had guns!) to intimidate us. I decided to phone a trotro that we had already used to pick us up. We hopped in when it arrived. The taxi driver also atempted to get in too, so I slammed the door while he leaned through the window. After an upsetting 15minutes I gave the taxi driver more money and finally we were on our way to Achiase. I was so happy to see my Ghanaian family when I returned, for the first time I experienced a really strong feeling that the house I'm living in is home, sweet home.
Half an hour later I still didn't recognise a thing so insisted we pulled over and ask a local. The first said to carry on into the dark however the second looked very surprised that we were looking for Achiase and directed us back to Kumasi.
I was bursting for the toilet by this point so directed the driver to AfricaWeb (our favourite web cafe). Once we arrived the driver demanded a lot of money for the trip which we refused to pay. We offered a small amount for the petrol but he demanded more even though he hadn't taken us to our destination. We ignored his request and carried on to the internet cafe.
The following hour was spent arguing with the driver who had befriended the banks security guards (who had guns!) to intimidate us. I decided to phone a trotro that we had already used to pick us up. We hopped in when it arrived. The taxi driver also atempted to get in too, so I slammed the door while he leaned through the window. After an upsetting 15minutes I gave the taxi driver more money and finally we were on our way to Achiase. I was so happy to see my Ghanaian family when I returned, for the first time I experienced a really strong feeling that the house I'm living in is home, sweet home.
Camera Club and Kites
And so the photography club has begun! After a week of being asked by the children to take their picture, now it was their turn. I started with the younger children, teaching them the basics - how to put in a film and which button to press. The kids were really excited about using the cameras, at first a few held them upside down and the wrong way round with fingers infront of the lense. However after an hour walking around the village snapping away, they all looked like professionals! The session was based on viewpoints, taking pictures high & low, far & near. I'm very excited to see how they turn out! Thank you so much to everyone who donated a camera or films to the project!
We went back to school in the afternoon, I taught english for the first hour and then arts and crafts. I'd prepared some things for the children to make kites out of old bags and sticks (my mum had taught me this when I was young). The classroom quickly exploded into chaos with children running about, but after a stressful but enjoyable 30 minutes we had many kites to go outside and fly. Exhausted by all the exitement I had a quick lay down and watched the kites fly.
We went back to school in the afternoon, I taught english for the first hour and then arts and crafts. I'd prepared some things for the children to make kites out of old bags and sticks (my mum had taught me this when I was young). The classroom quickly exploded into chaos with children running about, but after a stressful but enjoyable 30 minutes we had many kites to go outside and fly. Exhausted by all the exitement I had a quick lay down and watched the kites fly.
No chair, no school
I've just finished my first afternoon at school. I was little nervous to begin with. As Heather and I walked onto the playing field, children flocked to us shouting Obroni, Obroni! - meaning white person. I was expecting the first day to be spent observing the children. Instead i was quickly asked which subject I could teach and then shown to large class. Deserted by all teachers I was left standing infront of a very lively bunch of 14year olds. Keeping it simple, I started with multiplication then moved onto algebra. I quickly realised they knew a lot so had a quick glance at their textbook to find out the level they were at. The rest of the time was spent on domains and co-domains, which I vaguely remembered from GCSE. When the bell rang for playtime, many of the children wanted to continue being taught - I can't imagine this ever happening at my old school!
After teaching we relaxed outside the class with a few children who weren't in class. They were unable to speak English and after using are very basic Twi we asked someone to translate. We discovered that the children who linger outside the classrooms are those who can't afford to attend so just listen from outside. Outraged by this fact, I questioned one of the teachers who explained that although the government has made education free, the children still need to pay 9cedis for their chair and provide their own school uniform. Nine cedis is the quivalent to 4.5pounds which isn't a lot to you and me, however in Ghana it is the equivalent to 45bus journeys to Kumasi (40mins away).
While eating dinner we spoke to our mother, May about school and education. She told us about her own education and her dreams for her daughters. I don't think she meant to be profound when she said 'I don't care for material things but hunger for knowledge.' When she said it, it made me feel very privalaged to have had 14years of free education and the opportunity to attend university.
After teaching we relaxed outside the class with a few children who weren't in class. They were unable to speak English and after using are very basic Twi we asked someone to translate. We discovered that the children who linger outside the classrooms are those who can't afford to attend so just listen from outside. Outraged by this fact, I questioned one of the teachers who explained that although the government has made education free, the children still need to pay 9cedis for their chair and provide their own school uniform. Nine cedis is the quivalent to 4.5pounds which isn't a lot to you and me, however in Ghana it is the equivalent to 45bus journeys to Kumasi (40mins away).
While eating dinner we spoke to our mother, May about school and education. She told us about her own education and her dreams for her daughters. I don't think she meant to be profound when she said 'I don't care for material things but hunger for knowledge.' When she said it, it made me feel very privalaged to have had 14years of free education and the opportunity to attend university.
Help I'm a volunteer get me out of here!
Last night, I spent the night in the African rain forest. A brave eight of us travelled to Kakum National Park, hired nets and mats and camped on a wooden platform in the middle of the forest. We managed to set up camp just before sunset, I then sprayed everywhere with bug repellent. We had just basic rations (bread and water) for dinner which we enjoyed before settling down for the night. In the open air, I started to doze off listening to sound of twittering birds and some unknown animal noises.
A few hours later, a scream from Sarah woke the group as a huge bug climbed up the inside of our net. Aysha and I were quick to grab the flip flops and start batting it down and out. A few seconds later, another appeared - even bigger! The boys were unsympathetic to our cries for help. We arranged to get up early and walk across a 40m high, 350m long canape walk way during sunrise. It was beautiful. For a person who is scared of heights, I loved it! I struggled at first, as the walkway swayed but the stunning sunrise and the swinging monkeys were a great distraction!
A few hours later, a scream from Sarah woke the group as a huge bug climbed up the inside of our net. Aysha and I were quick to grab the flip flops and start batting it down and out. A few seconds later, another appeared - even bigger! The boys were unsympathetic to our cries for help. We arranged to get up early and walk across a 40m high, 350m long canape walk way during sunrise. It was beautiful. For a person who is scared of heights, I loved it! I struggled at first, as the walkway swayed but the stunning sunrise and the swinging monkeys were a great distraction!
Standing in the shadows of slavery
I'm writing this entry on a beautiful white sandy beach with waves crashing and the sun blasting. I'm enjoying the open space, the freedom to sprawl out in the sand and the beaming light illuminating my page. I am at Cape Coast. For those unaware with it's history, Cape Coast is home to a castle which was one of the largest slave holding sites in the world.
A few of us have spent the past 2 hours, walking in the shadows - through the make and female dungeons, cramped inside the cells and passing through the door of no return...
Our animated guide told us the horrific history, where many Ghanaians were traded for European goods and forced into a life of captive labour on plantations. I began to feel claustrophobic in the male dungeon with just a small group around me and very little light. I was then told thousands would have been shackled together and crammed into the gloomy space. A small ditch ran through the room where the waste would run out.
Our guide described the harsh treatment the captives received and how many would scratch away at the walls - just waiting. As he demonstrated the captives moves of desperation, my first tears in Africa ran. How could this have happen? Why did our ancestors not speak out? How could so many people remain silent while thousands were stripped of their belongings, families and freedom?
I slowly pushed the heavy door of no return,picturing the thousands who walked before me, forced through the door and onto the slave ships. Many never made it to the other side of their painful journey across the sea.
As we neared the end of our tour, our guide spoke of justice, of hope and humanity. That 200 years ago, slavery was abolished. No longer is Cape Coast used to house thousands of slaves however slavery is still happening. Thousands still work in Ghana for little pay and in poor conditions just to make chocolate. Poverty enslaves millions everyday, every night. No longer can we ignore the silent deaths across the developing world. As I near the end of my second week here in Ghana, the tourist glimmer begins to fade and the truth is slowly revealing.
A few of us have spent the past 2 hours, walking in the shadows - through the make and female dungeons, cramped inside the cells and passing through the door of no return...
Our animated guide told us the horrific history, where many Ghanaians were traded for European goods and forced into a life of captive labour on plantations. I began to feel claustrophobic in the male dungeon with just a small group around me and very little light. I was then told thousands would have been shackled together and crammed into the gloomy space. A small ditch ran through the room where the waste would run out.
Our guide described the harsh treatment the captives received and how many would scratch away at the walls - just waiting. As he demonstrated the captives moves of desperation, my first tears in Africa ran. How could this have happen? Why did our ancestors not speak out? How could so many people remain silent while thousands were stripped of their belongings, families and freedom?
I slowly pushed the heavy door of no return,picturing the thousands who walked before me, forced through the door and onto the slave ships. Many never made it to the other side of their painful journey across the sea.
As we neared the end of our tour, our guide spoke of justice, of hope and humanity. That 200 years ago, slavery was abolished. No longer is Cape Coast used to house thousands of slaves however slavery is still happening. Thousands still work in Ghana for little pay and in poor conditions just to make chocolate. Poverty enslaves millions everyday, every night. No longer can we ignore the silent deaths across the developing world. As I near the end of my second week here in Ghana, the tourist glimmer begins to fade and the truth is slowly revealing.
Hardwork and hairdoos
And so the work begins. I was expecting our first day at work to be a discussion about what we will build, maybe discuss the layout and designs of the toilet etc. I was wrong! Today was our first day and we were quickly introduced to hard work; leveling the ground, digging trenches, moving rocks, mixing cement (without a mixer!) and collecting water - on your head! Although it was hard work there were many hands to make the work fun. Many members of the community have joined us to build the toilet blocks. Ryan and I were shown how to carry water on your head from the septic tank to the cement. The local women laughed as it slopped over us - by then end we were both drenched! After our hard work in the morning we were allowed the afternoon off to allow the cement to set. Heather and I returned home to fish and yam lunch - I struggled a little with the fish eyes staring at me. After lunch we met up with Phil who wanted his hair cut - so we took a local trip to the barbers - nearly an hour later Phil left with a very short hair cut. Missing the internet, particularly facebook - a few of us took a trotro to Kumasi. This was our first trip without Sylvia (our local leader) and it was an adventure! We all piled into the local trotro and asked for the internet cafe, Lucy (a local who we had worked with) negotiated with the driver in Twi, that he would take us the whole way. After a bumpy hour journey, we arrived in Kumasi- but the driver struggled to find the internet cafe.We circled the city and drove through the army barracks where the police spotted we were lost and escorted us there. We managed to get inside just before the heavens opened and poured bucket loads! After dinner, Heather visited our sister, Belinda at her hair salon. Two hours later she returned with an 'unusual' hair syle. I think it's my turn next...
On the road to Achiase
An early start for our long journey to Achiase, where we will be living for the next 9weeks. Our luggage had expanded with african drums, traditional clothes, masks, paintings and much much more, so trying to fit it back into the van with us all was a little challenging. There was lots to see on the way; from dodging vehicles to stunning mountain sceneries, the five hour journey flew by. Once we reached Kumasi (the nearest city), I began to eagerly look out for our village. When we arrived into the village, many children gathered all bemuzed by us westerners. We had to wait in the van until permission was granted from the Chief (Nana) for us to stay in the village. Later we met the council of elders who formally welcomed us into Achiase. We then experienced our first of many trips in a trotro (a very small rusty old van - see photo). Heather and I were a little nervous when we looked at the beaten floor and could see the road! Thankfully our driver was great at dodging round the pot holes and we all safely made it. Excitement and nerves filled the van as we began to be dropped off at our homes. The first house was a posh villa style home with flushing toilet, shower and indoor kitchen (the lucky boys are staying here). Heather and I are staying in a more humble home with an outside drop toilet which we share with lizards and bucket baths (we're a little jealous)! We are staying with a large family and 8goats, our first night was spent watching 'Ghana most beautful'. A beauty contest which reminded me of holidays in Ireland watching the 'Rose of Trilee' with my grandma. I am constantly being surprised at so many similarities the are.
3 marriage proposals, 3 hours cooking and 3 mosquito bites
After being warned about the requests for your hand in marriage, I have had 3 so far!
- While waiting in the bus, a young man with a fish basin balanced on his head came and talked to me through the bus window. After a long conversation about Newcastle United he then said he loved me and asked for my contact details to start a relationship. Thankfully the bus had to get going so I made my excuses and zoomed away.
- & 3. were a joint effort by Issah and his friend. We had an interesting conversation about the political party in power and the attractions of Ghana which quickly moved onto a few compliments followed by how they would love a white bride. They were both adamant that I took their contact details, mentioning our relationship could lead to marriage! At this point I made a quick exit back to the group.
We spent this morning learning how to cook with Mama Joanna.We soon realised that Ghanaian food would take a little longer than a microwave meal. After collecting water, chopping vegetables, washing and marinating the meat, starting the fire and keeping it going, we we're finally ready to eat three hours later! Although we did enjoy the fruits of our labour!
Tomorrow we leave to Achiase, the village where we will be living for the next 9weeks. I'm really excited about meeting the family and settling in to country life. We will soon start our project building 20 toilets, I hope it's a flushing success! :)
My mosquito bite count: Three
Maadwo-maayo! (Good evening in Twi)
Today we have been learning the local lingo called Twi. With 15 of us crammed into a small room, it soon began to feel like GCSE french as we repeated the unfamiliar words with giggles coming from the back of the class!
We've also learnt some important cross-culture information, to make sure we don't offend anyone or get arrested, while staying in Ghana. My favourites our:
We've also learnt some important cross-culture information, to make sure we don't offend anyone or get arrested, while staying in Ghana. My favourites our:
- If anyone says you are fat, this is a compliment do not be offended.
- Being asked for your hand in marriage will be a popular request.
- Your left hand is unclean, do not use it - unless in the toilet!
- Do not photograph government buildings or the police - they will arrest you!
Finishing early, a few of us travelled down to the beach. The gorgeous white sands and the cool sea water was beautiful. After a peaceful hour, Sarah, Karem and I decided to challenge the boys playing football to a match: Ghana V England. I think I did Newcastle Utd proud after nearly scoring, although apparently it was a foul move... Sadly we lost to our Ghanaian brothers. We then jumped into a taxi, getting a little lost before finding our Pink Hostel.
Medease Kan (Thanks for reading).
First impressions
While travelling from the airport to the hostel, we experienced African traffic. Amazed by the people who walked freely between the cars with goods piled high on their heads, from peanuts to cushions - their was something for everyone!
A little nervous about what our first meal in Ghana would be... it turned out it was my favourite spaghetti bolognaise! An early night soon followed, exhausted by the day travelling.
Today was our first orientation day, to allow us to get to grips with Ghanaian culture before travelling to our project.
While waiting in the bus as some exchanged money we were mobbed by lots of men selling a variety of wrist bands, some even had 'Obama 2008' on! Phillip on his way back from the bank, made friends with one who quickly made him a bracelet with his own name on and gave him his contact details for any more business.
The afternoon has been really fun, yet challenging. For those of you who know me well, co-ordination and rhythm don't come naturally to me! So when learning a traditional dance routine, many moments turned into hilarity as our dancing instructor, Edward, showed us the moves. After a sweaty hour and a half dancing, my rhythm was again put to the test while we learnt traditional drumming. Aysha and I were singled out for our lack of co-ordination with the rest of the group. However by the end we were finally feeling the African rhythm!
This evening I went for a walk with some of the group. The atmosphere had changed from everyone smiling and talking to us during the day to being stared at by night. Although I too was staring, intrigued by the shop names like 'Don't mind your wife' selling home cooked food to 'Bus stop' where we stayed for a drink.
Exhausted from the African heat and lots of dancing, I'm off to bed.
Goodnight x
A little nervous about what our first meal in Ghana would be... it turned out it was my favourite spaghetti bolognaise! An early night soon followed, exhausted by the day travelling.
Today was our first orientation day, to allow us to get to grips with Ghanaian culture before travelling to our project.
While waiting in the bus as some exchanged money we were mobbed by lots of men selling a variety of wrist bands, some even had 'Obama 2008' on! Phillip on his way back from the bank, made friends with one who quickly made him a bracelet with his own name on and gave him his contact details for any more business.
The afternoon has been really fun, yet challenging. For those of you who know me well, co-ordination and rhythm don't come naturally to me! So when learning a traditional dance routine, many moments turned into hilarity as our dancing instructor, Edward, showed us the moves. After a sweaty hour and a half dancing, my rhythm was again put to the test while we learnt traditional drumming. Aysha and I were singled out for our lack of co-ordination with the rest of the group. However by the end we were finally feeling the African rhythm!
This evening I went for a walk with some of the group. The atmosphere had changed from everyone smiling and talking to us during the day to being stared at by night. Although I too was staring, intrigued by the shop names like 'Don't mind your wife' selling home cooked food to 'Bus stop' where we stayed for a drink.
Exhausted from the African heat and lots of dancing, I'm off to bed.
Goodnight x
No longer waiting on the Platform2 Ghana
After several attempts at packing, emotional goodbyes and a very early start. We have arrived in Ghana with all our luggage! My first night under the African sky and I am excited but also terrified. For the next 10 weeks, Ghana will be my home. Here I will blog my experiences, my emotions and of course my opinions!
So why am I here? After several years campaigning on development issues, I'm here to meet the people behind the statistics. The fact that 'Every 3seconds a child dies from preventable poverty' stirred me to act in 2005. Three years later I want to find out if our campaigning to Make Poverty History is making a difference and if Ghana is on track to meet the Millennium Development Goals (promises our politicians made to tackle poverty). I'm also here to embrace Ghanaian life, to learn from within a community and have fun!
I named this blog '2 expose' because not only do I want to expose the scandal of poverty. But also the beauty of Africa, often our media is full of depressing images of Africa. Here I want 2 expose the beauty, the truth. I intent to teach photography to children in our village, to let them capture their stories, their experiences and their dreams.
So why am I here? After several years campaigning on development issues, I'm here to meet the people behind the statistics. The fact that 'Every 3seconds a child dies from preventable poverty' stirred me to act in 2005. Three years later I want to find out if our campaigning to Make Poverty History is making a difference and if Ghana is on track to meet the Millennium Development Goals (promises our politicians made to tackle poverty). I'm also here to embrace Ghanaian life, to learn from within a community and have fun!
I named this blog '2 expose' because not only do I want to expose the scandal of poverty. But also the beauty of Africa, often our media is full of depressing images of Africa. Here I want 2 expose the beauty, the truth. I intent to teach photography to children in our village, to let them capture their stories, their experiences and their dreams.
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