After eating a few too many local dishes (banku & foo foo particularly), the group decided to treat ourselves and have dinner out in Kumasi. We indulged on western cuisine including banana splits - yum! Once we filled our bellies, we decided to get taxis home to Achiase. Street sellers crowded us with paintings and necklaces as we rushed into taxis. Ryan, Heather and I jumped into a taxi and negotiated a reasonable price. Our driver initially did a loop round Kumasi and ended up at the restaurant we had eaten at. At this point I questioned the driver's knowledge of Achiase and offered to get another taxi. He reassured us in broken english that he knew the way. So we set off on a route that didn't look familiar, I started to imagine the worse and made suggestions that we should get out however Ryan assured me that everything was fine and we must be going on the 'back roads'.
Half an hour later I still didn't recognise a thing so insisted we pulled over and ask a local. The first said to carry on into the dark however the second looked very surprised that we were looking for Achiase and directed us back to Kumasi.
I was bursting for the toilet by this point so directed the driver to AfricaWeb (our favourite web cafe). Once we arrived the driver demanded a lot of money for the trip which we refused to pay. We offered a small amount for the petrol but he demanded more even though he hadn't taken us to our destination. We ignored his request and carried on to the internet cafe.
The following hour was spent arguing with the driver who had befriended the banks security guards (who had guns!) to intimidate us. I decided to phone a trotro that we had already used to pick us up. We hopped in when it arrived. The taxi driver also atempted to get in too, so I slammed the door while he leaned through the window. After an upsetting 15minutes I gave the taxi driver more money and finally we were on our way to Achiase. I was so happy to see my Ghanaian family when I returned, for the first time I experienced a really strong feeling that the house I'm living in is home, sweet home.
Camera Club and Kites
And so the photography club has begun! After a week of being asked by the children to take their picture, now it was their turn. I started with the younger children, teaching them the basics - how to put in a film and which button to press. The kids were really excited about using the cameras, at first a few held them upside down and the wrong way round with fingers infront of the lense. However after an hour walking around the village snapping away, they all looked like professionals! The session was based on viewpoints, taking pictures high & low, far & near. I'm very excited to see how they turn out! Thank you so much to everyone who donated a camera or films to the project!
We went back to school in the afternoon, I taught english for the first hour and then arts and crafts. I'd prepared some things for the children to make kites out of old bags and sticks (my mum had taught me this when I was young). The classroom quickly exploded into chaos with children running about, but after a stressful but enjoyable 30 minutes we had many kites to go outside and fly. Exhausted by all the exitement I had a quick lay down and watched the kites fly.
We went back to school in the afternoon, I taught english for the first hour and then arts and crafts. I'd prepared some things for the children to make kites out of old bags and sticks (my mum had taught me this when I was young). The classroom quickly exploded into chaos with children running about, but after a stressful but enjoyable 30 minutes we had many kites to go outside and fly. Exhausted by all the exitement I had a quick lay down and watched the kites fly.
No chair, no school
I've just finished my first afternoon at school. I was little nervous to begin with. As Heather and I walked onto the playing field, children flocked to us shouting Obroni, Obroni! - meaning white person. I was expecting the first day to be spent observing the children. Instead i was quickly asked which subject I could teach and then shown to large class. Deserted by all teachers I was left standing infront of a very lively bunch of 14year olds. Keeping it simple, I started with multiplication then moved onto algebra. I quickly realised they knew a lot so had a quick glance at their textbook to find out the level they were at. The rest of the time was spent on domains and co-domains, which I vaguely remembered from GCSE. When the bell rang for playtime, many of the children wanted to continue being taught - I can't imagine this ever happening at my old school!
After teaching we relaxed outside the class with a few children who weren't in class. They were unable to speak English and after using are very basic Twi we asked someone to translate. We discovered that the children who linger outside the classrooms are those who can't afford to attend so just listen from outside. Outraged by this fact, I questioned one of the teachers who explained that although the government has made education free, the children still need to pay 9cedis for their chair and provide their own school uniform. Nine cedis is the quivalent to 4.5pounds which isn't a lot to you and me, however in Ghana it is the equivalent to 45bus journeys to Kumasi (40mins away).
While eating dinner we spoke to our mother, May about school and education. She told us about her own education and her dreams for her daughters. I don't think she meant to be profound when she said 'I don't care for material things but hunger for knowledge.' When she said it, it made me feel very privalaged to have had 14years of free education and the opportunity to attend university.
After teaching we relaxed outside the class with a few children who weren't in class. They were unable to speak English and after using are very basic Twi we asked someone to translate. We discovered that the children who linger outside the classrooms are those who can't afford to attend so just listen from outside. Outraged by this fact, I questioned one of the teachers who explained that although the government has made education free, the children still need to pay 9cedis for their chair and provide their own school uniform. Nine cedis is the quivalent to 4.5pounds which isn't a lot to you and me, however in Ghana it is the equivalent to 45bus journeys to Kumasi (40mins away).
While eating dinner we spoke to our mother, May about school and education. She told us about her own education and her dreams for her daughters. I don't think she meant to be profound when she said 'I don't care for material things but hunger for knowledge.' When she said it, it made me feel very privalaged to have had 14years of free education and the opportunity to attend university.
Help I'm a volunteer get me out of here!
Last night, I spent the night in the African rain forest. A brave eight of us travelled to Kakum National Park, hired nets and mats and camped on a wooden platform in the middle of the forest. We managed to set up camp just before sunset, I then sprayed everywhere with bug repellent. We had just basic rations (bread and water) for dinner which we enjoyed before settling down for the night. In the open air, I started to doze off listening to sound of twittering birds and some unknown animal noises.
A few hours later, a scream from Sarah woke the group as a huge bug climbed up the inside of our net. Aysha and I were quick to grab the flip flops and start batting it down and out. A few seconds later, another appeared - even bigger! The boys were unsympathetic to our cries for help. We arranged to get up early and walk across a 40m high, 350m long canape walk way during sunrise. It was beautiful. For a person who is scared of heights, I loved it! I struggled at first, as the walkway swayed but the stunning sunrise and the swinging monkeys were a great distraction!
A few hours later, a scream from Sarah woke the group as a huge bug climbed up the inside of our net. Aysha and I were quick to grab the flip flops and start batting it down and out. A few seconds later, another appeared - even bigger! The boys were unsympathetic to our cries for help. We arranged to get up early and walk across a 40m high, 350m long canape walk way during sunrise. It was beautiful. For a person who is scared of heights, I loved it! I struggled at first, as the walkway swayed but the stunning sunrise and the swinging monkeys were a great distraction!
Standing in the shadows of slavery
I'm writing this entry on a beautiful white sandy beach with waves crashing and the sun blasting. I'm enjoying the open space, the freedom to sprawl out in the sand and the beaming light illuminating my page. I am at Cape Coast. For those unaware with it's history, Cape Coast is home to a castle which was one of the largest slave holding sites in the world.
A few of us have spent the past 2 hours, walking in the shadows - through the make and female dungeons, cramped inside the cells and passing through the door of no return...
Our animated guide told us the horrific history, where many Ghanaians were traded for European goods and forced into a life of captive labour on plantations. I began to feel claustrophobic in the male dungeon with just a small group around me and very little light. I was then told thousands would have been shackled together and crammed into the gloomy space. A small ditch ran through the room where the waste would run out.
Our guide described the harsh treatment the captives received and how many would scratch away at the walls - just waiting. As he demonstrated the captives moves of desperation, my first tears in Africa ran. How could this have happen? Why did our ancestors not speak out? How could so many people remain silent while thousands were stripped of their belongings, families and freedom?
I slowly pushed the heavy door of no return,picturing the thousands who walked before me, forced through the door and onto the slave ships. Many never made it to the other side of their painful journey across the sea.
As we neared the end of our tour, our guide spoke of justice, of hope and humanity. That 200 years ago, slavery was abolished. No longer is Cape Coast used to house thousands of slaves however slavery is still happening. Thousands still work in Ghana for little pay and in poor conditions just to make chocolate. Poverty enslaves millions everyday, every night. No longer can we ignore the silent deaths across the developing world. As I near the end of my second week here in Ghana, the tourist glimmer begins to fade and the truth is slowly revealing.
A few of us have spent the past 2 hours, walking in the shadows - through the make and female dungeons, cramped inside the cells and passing through the door of no return...
Our animated guide told us the horrific history, where many Ghanaians were traded for European goods and forced into a life of captive labour on plantations. I began to feel claustrophobic in the male dungeon with just a small group around me and very little light. I was then told thousands would have been shackled together and crammed into the gloomy space. A small ditch ran through the room where the waste would run out.
Our guide described the harsh treatment the captives received and how many would scratch away at the walls - just waiting. As he demonstrated the captives moves of desperation, my first tears in Africa ran. How could this have happen? Why did our ancestors not speak out? How could so many people remain silent while thousands were stripped of their belongings, families and freedom?
I slowly pushed the heavy door of no return,picturing the thousands who walked before me, forced through the door and onto the slave ships. Many never made it to the other side of their painful journey across the sea.
As we neared the end of our tour, our guide spoke of justice, of hope and humanity. That 200 years ago, slavery was abolished. No longer is Cape Coast used to house thousands of slaves however slavery is still happening. Thousands still work in Ghana for little pay and in poor conditions just to make chocolate. Poverty enslaves millions everyday, every night. No longer can we ignore the silent deaths across the developing world. As I near the end of my second week here in Ghana, the tourist glimmer begins to fade and the truth is slowly revealing.
Hardwork and hairdoos
And so the work begins. I was expecting our first day at work to be a discussion about what we will build, maybe discuss the layout and designs of the toilet etc. I was wrong! Today was our first day and we were quickly introduced to hard work; leveling the ground, digging trenches, moving rocks, mixing cement (without a mixer!) and collecting water - on your head! Although it was hard work there were many hands to make the work fun. Many members of the community have joined us to build the toilet blocks. Ryan and I were shown how to carry water on your head from the septic tank to the cement. The local women laughed as it slopped over us - by then end we were both drenched! After our hard work in the morning we were allowed the afternoon off to allow the cement to set. Heather and I returned home to fish and yam lunch - I struggled a little with the fish eyes staring at me. After lunch we met up with Phil who wanted his hair cut - so we took a local trip to the barbers - nearly an hour later Phil left with a very short hair cut. Missing the internet, particularly facebook - a few of us took a trotro to Kumasi. This was our first trip without Sylvia (our local leader) and it was an adventure! We all piled into the local trotro and asked for the internet cafe, Lucy (a local who we had worked with) negotiated with the driver in Twi, that he would take us the whole way. After a bumpy hour journey, we arrived in Kumasi- but the driver struggled to find the internet cafe.We circled the city and drove through the army barracks where the police spotted we were lost and escorted us there. We managed to get inside just before the heavens opened and poured bucket loads! After dinner, Heather visited our sister, Belinda at her hair salon. Two hours later she returned with an 'unusual' hair syle. I think it's my turn next...
On the road to Achiase
An early start for our long journey to Achiase, where we will be living for the next 9weeks. Our luggage had expanded with african drums, traditional clothes, masks, paintings and much much more, so trying to fit it back into the van with us all was a little challenging. There was lots to see on the way; from dodging vehicles to stunning mountain sceneries, the five hour journey flew by. Once we reached Kumasi (the nearest city), I began to eagerly look out for our village. When we arrived into the village, many children gathered all bemuzed by us westerners. We had to wait in the van until permission was granted from the Chief (Nana) for us to stay in the village. Later we met the council of elders who formally welcomed us into Achiase. We then experienced our first of many trips in a trotro (a very small rusty old van - see photo). Heather and I were a little nervous when we looked at the beaten floor and could see the road! Thankfully our driver was great at dodging round the pot holes and we all safely made it. Excitement and nerves filled the van as we began to be dropped off at our homes. The first house was a posh villa style home with flushing toilet, shower and indoor kitchen (the lucky boys are staying here). Heather and I are staying in a more humble home with an outside drop toilet which we share with lizards and bucket baths (we're a little jealous)! We are staying with a large family and 8goats, our first night was spent watching 'Ghana most beautful'. A beauty contest which reminded me of holidays in Ireland watching the 'Rose of Trilee' with my grandma. I am constantly being surprised at so many similarities the are.
3 marriage proposals, 3 hours cooking and 3 mosquito bites
After being warned about the requests for your hand in marriage, I have had 3 so far!
- While waiting in the bus, a young man with a fish basin balanced on his head came and talked to me through the bus window. After a long conversation about Newcastle United he then said he loved me and asked for my contact details to start a relationship. Thankfully the bus had to get going so I made my excuses and zoomed away.
- & 3. were a joint effort by Issah and his friend. We had an interesting conversation about the political party in power and the attractions of Ghana which quickly moved onto a few compliments followed by how they would love a white bride. They were both adamant that I took their contact details, mentioning our relationship could lead to marriage! At this point I made a quick exit back to the group.
We spent this morning learning how to cook with Mama Joanna.We soon realised that Ghanaian food would take a little longer than a microwave meal. After collecting water, chopping vegetables, washing and marinating the meat, starting the fire and keeping it going, we we're finally ready to eat three hours later! Although we did enjoy the fruits of our labour!
Tomorrow we leave to Achiase, the village where we will be living for the next 9weeks. I'm really excited about meeting the family and settling in to country life. We will soon start our project building 20 toilets, I hope it's a flushing success! :)
My mosquito bite count: Three
Maadwo-maayo! (Good evening in Twi)
Today we have been learning the local lingo called Twi. With 15 of us crammed into a small room, it soon began to feel like GCSE french as we repeated the unfamiliar words with giggles coming from the back of the class!
We've also learnt some important cross-culture information, to make sure we don't offend anyone or get arrested, while staying in Ghana. My favourites our:
We've also learnt some important cross-culture information, to make sure we don't offend anyone or get arrested, while staying in Ghana. My favourites our:
- If anyone says you are fat, this is a compliment do not be offended.
- Being asked for your hand in marriage will be a popular request.
- Your left hand is unclean, do not use it - unless in the toilet!
- Do not photograph government buildings or the police - they will arrest you!
Finishing early, a few of us travelled down to the beach. The gorgeous white sands and the cool sea water was beautiful. After a peaceful hour, Sarah, Karem and I decided to challenge the boys playing football to a match: Ghana V England. I think I did Newcastle Utd proud after nearly scoring, although apparently it was a foul move... Sadly we lost to our Ghanaian brothers. We then jumped into a taxi, getting a little lost before finding our Pink Hostel.
Medease Kan (Thanks for reading).
First impressions
While travelling from the airport to the hostel, we experienced African traffic. Amazed by the people who walked freely between the cars with goods piled high on their heads, from peanuts to cushions - their was something for everyone!
A little nervous about what our first meal in Ghana would be... it turned out it was my favourite spaghetti bolognaise! An early night soon followed, exhausted by the day travelling.
Today was our first orientation day, to allow us to get to grips with Ghanaian culture before travelling to our project.
While waiting in the bus as some exchanged money we were mobbed by lots of men selling a variety of wrist bands, some even had 'Obama 2008' on! Phillip on his way back from the bank, made friends with one who quickly made him a bracelet with his own name on and gave him his contact details for any more business.
The afternoon has been really fun, yet challenging. For those of you who know me well, co-ordination and rhythm don't come naturally to me! So when learning a traditional dance routine, many moments turned into hilarity as our dancing instructor, Edward, showed us the moves. After a sweaty hour and a half dancing, my rhythm was again put to the test while we learnt traditional drumming. Aysha and I were singled out for our lack of co-ordination with the rest of the group. However by the end we were finally feeling the African rhythm!
This evening I went for a walk with some of the group. The atmosphere had changed from everyone smiling and talking to us during the day to being stared at by night. Although I too was staring, intrigued by the shop names like 'Don't mind your wife' selling home cooked food to 'Bus stop' where we stayed for a drink.
Exhausted from the African heat and lots of dancing, I'm off to bed.
Goodnight x
A little nervous about what our first meal in Ghana would be... it turned out it was my favourite spaghetti bolognaise! An early night soon followed, exhausted by the day travelling.
Today was our first orientation day, to allow us to get to grips with Ghanaian culture before travelling to our project.
While waiting in the bus as some exchanged money we were mobbed by lots of men selling a variety of wrist bands, some even had 'Obama 2008' on! Phillip on his way back from the bank, made friends with one who quickly made him a bracelet with his own name on and gave him his contact details for any more business.
The afternoon has been really fun, yet challenging. For those of you who know me well, co-ordination and rhythm don't come naturally to me! So when learning a traditional dance routine, many moments turned into hilarity as our dancing instructor, Edward, showed us the moves. After a sweaty hour and a half dancing, my rhythm was again put to the test while we learnt traditional drumming. Aysha and I were singled out for our lack of co-ordination with the rest of the group. However by the end we were finally feeling the African rhythm!
This evening I went for a walk with some of the group. The atmosphere had changed from everyone smiling and talking to us during the day to being stared at by night. Although I too was staring, intrigued by the shop names like 'Don't mind your wife' selling home cooked food to 'Bus stop' where we stayed for a drink.
Exhausted from the African heat and lots of dancing, I'm off to bed.
Goodnight x
No longer waiting on the Platform2 Ghana
After several attempts at packing, emotional goodbyes and a very early start. We have arrived in Ghana with all our luggage! My first night under the African sky and I am excited but also terrified. For the next 10 weeks, Ghana will be my home. Here I will blog my experiences, my emotions and of course my opinions!
So why am I here? After several years campaigning on development issues, I'm here to meet the people behind the statistics. The fact that 'Every 3seconds a child dies from preventable poverty' stirred me to act in 2005. Three years later I want to find out if our campaigning to Make Poverty History is making a difference and if Ghana is on track to meet the Millennium Development Goals (promises our politicians made to tackle poverty). I'm also here to embrace Ghanaian life, to learn from within a community and have fun!
I named this blog '2 expose' because not only do I want to expose the scandal of poverty. But also the beauty of Africa, often our media is full of depressing images of Africa. Here I want 2 expose the beauty, the truth. I intent to teach photography to children in our village, to let them capture their stories, their experiences and their dreams.
So why am I here? After several years campaigning on development issues, I'm here to meet the people behind the statistics. The fact that 'Every 3seconds a child dies from preventable poverty' stirred me to act in 2005. Three years later I want to find out if our campaigning to Make Poverty History is making a difference and if Ghana is on track to meet the Millennium Development Goals (promises our politicians made to tackle poverty). I'm also here to embrace Ghanaian life, to learn from within a community and have fun!
I named this blog '2 expose' because not only do I want to expose the scandal of poverty. But also the beauty of Africa, often our media is full of depressing images of Africa. Here I want 2 expose the beauty, the truth. I intent to teach photography to children in our village, to let them capture their stories, their experiences and their dreams.
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